Back from Bavaria pt. II, or, the Madness of King Ludwig

I know that our Bavaria trip was awhile ago....let's just say that life has been crazy.  Really, when is it not?  I feel like I begin each week with a fresh outlook and a relatively clear schedule.  By mid-week I am embroiled in multiple projects and feeling overwhelmed by the number of things I need to accomplish before the weekend.  As I reach the end of the week I sink, exhausted, into bed wondering where the week went and how it is possible that I got so little done.  Time passes so quickly.  I am hoping that as I get into more of a routine here, and become more familiar with my surroundings, my life will begin to feel less frenetic and over-scheduled.  On the other hand, I am a compulsively busy person.  Maybe there's no hope! 

Anyway, the last two weeks were filled with birthdays, Halloween activities, and church responsibilities and blogging (out of sheer necessity) got shoved to the back burner.  I'm in a pre-Thanksgiving lull right now, though, so I'm planning on getting all caught up.  So, back to Bavaria. 

After our day on the Zugspitze we decided it was time to do some castle gazing.  In two days we visited 3 castles owned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. The first, Hohenschwangau, was his parents' place. (Ludwig was born in Hohenschwangau, but decided (when he ascended the throne at the ripe old age of 18) that it was too old-fashioned for his taste moved out.) 

                            

                                          

I don't know - if I'd been born in a place like that I'd be looking to upgrade.  Wouldn't you?  Because the 20 minute walk to the top only took us 5 (with kids!!!) we arrived in plenty of time to walk around the courtyards and enjoy the views from each side of the castle, all of which were spectacular.  It is, after all, about location, location, location...

        

       

I have to insert here that visiting the Alps this fall was such a balm for my homesickness.  After living for 7 years in relatively flat places it is so wonderful to live near some real mountains.  If we hadn't encountered several crazy German motorists, and seen the pristine woodstacks on the pristine farms filled with immaculately groomed cattle, I almost would have believed myself to be back in Utah.  It was great to be in the mountains again.

The second castle we visited is the most famous of Ludwig's castles, and possibly the most famous castle in Europe - Neuschwanstein.  This is one of several newer, hipper place Ludwig built during his reign.  It never was finished.  Ludwig (by the time he was in his early 30's) had bankrupted the treasury and was found drowned in a pond next to the castle.  Very mysterious...

    

 

      

The third castle we visited was Linderhoff - Ludwig's mini-Versailles.  I swear the guy spent his life trying to escape it.  He had grottos, a Moorish Kiosk, the mini-Versailles, a Wagnerian hunting lodge.  Way too much money, way too much power.

                                                             

Our last stop (and this was the one that pushed the kids to their limits) was at a monastery in Ettal.  We'll have to go back.  But, we did run into someone who took a picture of the whole family together (we got 3 in one trip!!!) so at least we can document that we tried.

                                  

 

And that's it.  We had a really, really long drive home (taking the scenic route wasn't the best of ideas) and are now trying to decide what to do for our next 4 day weekend.  Trier perhaps?

Oh, and mom, I PROMISE the Halloween pictures are coming soon!

Shameless Bribery (a.k.a. Back from Bavaria pt. 1)

This weekend was a long one for Ben and Ian (one perk of army life is that Ben gets a 4 day weekend for every federal holiday  - even minor ones like Columbus Day) so we studied our maps, packed up our bags and headed to Garmisch.  Determined to cram as many unbelievable sight-seeing experiences into four days without compromising our childrens' ability to behave or our sanity, we scheduled as many child friendly activities as we could.  And resorted to shameless bribery.  It started out so innocently.  "If you guys are really good today, maybe we'll stop for a pastry at the bakery," and "Please remember that you have to hold one of our hands at ALL TIMES if you want to earn your treat tonight."  By day two phrases such as "It is time to put on Castle Manners - if you can be really good today we'll stop at that Chocolaterie we passed last night and get some really fancy chocolates" were heard on occasion.  As day two waned it was more like "If you can be really, really good during this tour of the castle, you can have a treat as soon as we get back to the car - please keep on walking."  And after four days of hiking, touring castles, visiting churches, and traipsing through museums, we made the unfortunate mistake of taking the scenic route home.  Now, I acknowledge that using food as a reward is not the greatest parenting strategy, and as a general rule, I try to avoid doing it.  However, after a few hours in the car, and hearing one too many high pitched shriek, my parenting devolved into, "If you will just use polite voices and not require any parental intervention for the next hour, I'll give you a mint from my purse."  Shameless. 

All kidding aside, the kids were amazingly well behaved and we had a great time.  The weather was beautiful, we didn't get lost, our hotel wasn't a dive, and really, the kids were excellent.  They were troopers.  We walked A LOT, and we saw A LOT in a short amount of time, and they, for the most part, were cheerful, obedient, and excited to see and do new things. It really wasn't until day 4 that their ability to restrain themselves really declined.  So, as Ben and I realized, next time we travel (especially when we take longer trips) we'll need to have a day or two where we do nothing but play in a park or stay at the hotel and color, or watch movies.  Taking a tram up a mountain doesn't count as kid time. 

Okay, enough with the jabber - here are some pictures.  I'm posting this in two parts because there are just too many pictures to include in one post.  So, for today you will see documentation of our trip up the Zugspitze (the highest mountain in Germany) and sometime soon you will be treated to a tour through the castles of Mad King Ludwig - Patterson style.

Here are Ben and the kids ready for a trip up the mountain...

                                          

...at a stop along the way...

                                                          

...and at the Glacier (just below the summit).

                                            

                                

And, to prove I was there too....

                                            

And finally, some pictures of pretty mountains (okay, I'd call them spectacular)...

             

...and the view from the top.

                                          

Ballerina in Training

Here, as promised, are some pictures of Naomi in her ballet clothes.  Because I have had a hard time finding someone here to photograph our kids, I have been messing around with my camera and with photoshop.  I'm still not sure on the B&W conversions.  I think it will take a lot more practice.  So, those of you who are really good at this, DON'T LAUGH.  You know who you are.

                                        

                                         

                                                              

                                            

Amsterdam

So, this trip was actually back at the beginning of September.  The very beginning.  Like, Labor Day Weekend.  We went with some friends and stayed in a very fun, very family friendly resort in the Southern part of the Netherlands (it was only about a 4 hour drive).  We stayed in a little bungalow (very basic, but also very inexpensive) and had at our disposal a huge indoor water park, a lake with paddle boats and canoes, bowling, tennis, ping pong, mini-golf, restaurants (although the food was REALLY not so good) and lots and lots of playgrounds.  It was a perfect spot for us to spend the weekend.  I was recovering from an illness (I'm fine now) so I was able to relax while Ben played with the kids.  Although the trip was mostly centered around family play time, we did manage to drive up to Amsterdam for a day.  It was wonderful.  I had never been to Amsterdam, and didn't really know what to expect.  I've heard some pretty sketchy things about Amsterdam (the city of pot and prostitution) so I was a little worried about the environment.  Turns out, the red light district is very defined (it's actually a tourist destination), so it is easy to avoid, and if you avoid it, you're pretty much fine.  Amsterdam is really a beautiful city.  I really want to go back - one day was not enough.  The things we were able to see:

The Anne Frank House

                                                                

I didn't take any pictures of the actual house (the outside is not much to look at, and there is no photography allowed inside). This is a statue of Anne the is right around the block from her house.

                                                                  

This is the church around the corner from Anne Frank's house.  I really enjoyed visiting the Anne Frank house.  Having visited Auschwitz as well as the Holocaust Museum in Jerusalem, I've witnessed the horror of the Holocaust on a large scale.  Seeing the Frank family's hideout and reading their letters, as well as quotes from Anne's journal, and imagining trying to keep my children quiet for 2 years, hidden in a tiny space and never letting them outside was touching in a more personal, more intimate way.  I think sometimes we see tragedies unfold in the news and they are so huge, and so horrible that they are literally mind numbing.  I think it is good to see how world events (historical and contemporary) affect individuals because through doing so we develop more empathy and a greater desire to effect change.  On a lighter note, I read Anne Frank's diary when I was in elementary school, and it was exciting to see a place I had imagined as I read.

The Rijksmuseum and the VanGough Museum

                                 

           

Okay, so only the first picture has anything to do with the museums.  (Once again, no photography inside.)  I loved both museums.  A big plus for us was that 80% of the Rijksmuseum was closed for remodeling, so all of their treasures were packed into one wing of the museum.  Had I not been traveling with young children, I would have enjoyed a lengthy ramble through the entire building, however, with kids in tow, the condensed version was perfect.  We saw the Vermeers and the Rembrandts and we did it all in 90 minutes or less!  Between museums, we took a break for lunch and some play time on yet another REALLY unsafe playground.  We went to the VanGough museum after lunch (Ben carried a sleeping N through the entire museum and all the way back to the car) and then headed back to our bungalow.  We had a great day. 

*Oh, and for any music nerds out there - here is a picture of the Royal Concertgebouw.  It is right across the plaza from the museums.  If you look really, really closely, you can see the golden lyre. 

                                         

Things I've Learned

Awhile ago I promised an entry describing things I have learned about Europe and Europeans.  Well, no time like the present!  Keep in mind that this is the second time I've lived in Europe (I lived in Italy for a year when I was 14) and not the first time I've been in Europe as an adult.  (I did a lot of traveling throughout Europe, Russia and the Middle East in college.)  I guess what I'm saying is that I didn't expect to find much that surprised me here.  And, I think that, due to my past travel experiences, the culture shock has been minimal.  However, there has been a certain element of discovery in everything I've seen and done this time around.  Mostly I've just been reminded of things that I had forgotten and struck by the differences between the culture here in Germany and the culture (as I remember it) in Italy.  And, compared to my life in Georgia, everything feels foreign.  (Of course, Georgia felt completely foreign after having lived in Baltimore, so I guess it's all a matter of perspective, which in turn is a matter of experience.) 

Okay, enough with the introspection, and on with my first blogging Top Ten.  I guess I should have some kind of witty title....hmmmm.....how about Top Ten Random Thoughts on New(ish) European Experiences.  Kind of wordy, but it's getting late and will have to do.

10.  Driving stress in Germany is directly proportional to the size of city (which is in turn a function of the number of one way streets and pedestrian areas in said city).  Although German drivers drive FAST, they are polite, they know how to merge, and they use freeway lanes correctly.  This is most definitely not true in Italy.  I'm thinking at this moment of a time when our family (as in my parents, myself and my siblings) followed a ward member to Stake Conference in Milan.  Let's just say, the driver we were following never could choose a lane.  That pretty much defines Italian driving. 

9.  Parking stress in Germany is directly proportional to the size of the car you are driving.  (Okay, that might have something to do with driving stress as well - just ask Ben...)  Today I parked our minivan directly in the center of a parking spot in Heidelberg and had 4 inches between the tires and the lines on each side.  Hooray for small European cars and sliding van doors!!!  Minus these two factors we may well have been stuck inside the van.

8.  Modesty is passé when visiting a German doctor.  Coverups?  What are those?  Just drop your drawers and walk on over!  Now I have to admit, the only doctors I saw in Italy were looking at my ears and throat, so no disrobing was required.  It is likely (probable, really) that the same casual attitude exists in Italian doctors' offices, but not having experienced it first hand, my first appointment with a German doctor was, shall we say, a little shocking.

7.  German beverages aren't always warm.  Now this has been a HUGE surprise.  I haven't had a warm Fanta yet.  On the other hand, I don't think I had a cold Fanta the entire year I was in Italy.  I've wondered if I'm getting served cold drinks because by the time I've ordered my meal, any server of even moderate intelligence has determined that I'm obviously a dumb American and, due to the large number of Americans in the area, is accustomed to our strange drinking habits, OR, if German's just like their drinks cold.  Still not sure on this one.  Maybe there has been a beverage temperature revolution in Europe.  I just don't know.

6.  Playgrounds aren't safe.  Neither are castles, mountain pathways, cathedrals, or sidewalks for that matter.  Given that I was 14 the first time I was in Europe, and a fancy free college student the other times, I didn't really notice playgrounds much.  Or safety precautions in general.  I am, however, understanding more and more why my mom felt stressed as she and my dad hauled the four of us (aged 5-14) through some of the major cities of Europe.  Europeans seem to have this idea that parents should be the ones responsible for their children's safety (revolutionary, I know).  I have no problem with being the one in charge of keeping my children from falling off Il Duomo.  I wouldn't, however, mind a more substantial guardrail to help me in my endeavors.

5.  Everything here takes longer.  I'm sure that this is mostly me at this point.  I'm still not sure where everything is, or where to find the best place to park, or which stores carry which merchandise, so errand running is still not smooth.  But people here just aren't in as big of a hurry to get places. (The one exception to this is when they're driving on the Autobahn, but I think that speed on the autobahn can be attributed to the fact that Germans just like to go fast.  Really, who doesn't? And here, it's allowed!)  Restaurant eating is an experience to be savored, not rushed.  What is the point of a shopping trip if you don't stop for a pastry and a drink when you're done?  Or gelato.  Or a pastry, a drink and gelato.  But I digress.  People here just don't seem as frenzied.  It is nice. 

4. When it comes to fashion, German women look like Americans.  When I go to Globus (a German SuperTarget-like store, but even larger) or to the Reve (a supermarket) the employees assume that I'm German.  Granted, I look more German than Italian, but here I can wear jeans and a t-shirt here and blend in.  This never, ever, ever happened in Italy.  Granted, the blonde hair kind of tipped the Italians off (olive toned complexion, as well as dark hair and eyes definitely would have helped me not feel SO conspicuous), but in Italy just the fact that I wasn't wearing black, gray, leather, fur, gold chains and sunglasses (not necessarily all at once) set me apart.  Italian women wear fur coats to the grocery store.  And they never, ever, ever wear tennis shoes.  It is quite a relief to live in a place that is not quite so obsessed with fashion.  Of course, now I don't have a good excuse to go spend a fortune on clothes....

3.  The same is not true for men.  I think one word sums it all up.  Manpris.  Okay, maybe I'd better explain a little.  When Raphael Nadal blazed on to the tennis scene, one thing the commentators noticed (aside from his incredible game) was his attire - particularly his capri length bottoms.  That's right.  Manpris.  Men here wear capri pants.  My favorite pair so far were sported by a gentleman (with a wife and kids in tow) at a resort we stayed in on our Netherlands trip.  They were the color of lime sherbet and were accompanied by a matching widely striped lime green and pink shirt.  Wow.  When I told Ben that I was going to get him that same outfit for his birthday he wasn't amused. 

2.  There are just as many fat Germans as there are fat Americans.  (Just so you know, these last two observations are a direct result of our stay at het meerdal in the Netherlands.)  Okay, I've always lived under the assumption that Americans were the fattest people on the planet, and I think that statistics prove that we definitely struggle with obesity.  However, we are not alone.  When one considers the foods that are available (particularly the chocolate, the cheese, the yogurt, and oh, did I say the CHOCOLATE?!?!) this really shouldn't be surprising.  What is surprising is that it isn't typical of Europe as a whole - I mean, all these fantastic things are available in Italy and France as well, and I definitely remember feeling large (and this was when at 5'8" I weighed somewhere around 120) in Italy.  I don't know what makes the difference, but I do know that I have eaten way too much chocolate in the last 2 months, and now I'm paying the price.  Back on the elliptical I go.  Drat.

1.  One should never be too shy to wear a speedo or a bikini, or, really, to bother with a bathing suit at all.  I don't know that anything more needs to be said on this subject, except to clarify one point; we haven't seen any nude swimmers yet, and we really hope not to.  We will have to be careful, though.  I hear Wednesday is nude day at the local pool.....

Back to Blogging II

Well, you've all heard about Ben's fantastic weekend in Switzerland, so now I suppose it's only fair that I tell you now about my weekend home with the kids.  Thrilling, right?  Actually, we had a good time.  Not a hiking through the Alps while yodeling kind of good time, but a good time nonetheless.  I wanted to do something exciting and special (it was a four day weekend after all - not to be wasted when one is in Europe) so I decided on a day trip.  Originally my plan was to take the kids to the Heidelberg Zoo with some friends, but the plan morphed into a hiking trip to a couple ruined castles.  The castles were two of the four that were lit up at the fireworks display I described in this link:

We had a group of 6 families from church. I think in all there were 16 children.  The oldest was, maybe, 11.  The second oldest was 10.  The rest of the children were 6 and under.  That's right.  14 children aged 6 and under.  They have these AFN commercials warning people not to travel in large groups so as to not draw attention to ourselves.  Hahahahaha. We were definitely noticeable.  In fact, we even ran into someone from New Jersey who, when told that some of us were from Utah, asked if we were Mormon.  When we replied that yes indeed, not only some, but all of us were Mormon, we got the "Ah ha - one dad, 4 wives and lots of kids" comment.   Of course we quickly responded that NO NO NO that is NOT the case.  Our comments however, were somewhat invalidated by the fact that we were missing 3 of the dads.  (Backpacking.....in Switzerland....)  I told the man that I had one husband, no other wives, and only 2 children.  Unfortunately, my husband was one of the missing ones.  Good times.  Okay, enough jabber - on to pictures.  B had the good camera in Switzerland (for some reason he thought he had better scenery....) so once again I was stuck with the pocket camera.  I think it might be time for a second SLR.  Yup.                 

                    

Okay, in picture number one, how many dads can you count?  The castle on the right is the first castle we reached.  On the way up the trail the kids had a lot of fun climbing on rocks, tree roots, finding bugs, finding sticks and finding hidden treasure for some German child's birthday party.  (We did make them put it back!)

                   

                                         

And now time for some castle shots...

          

Note the steep staircase  - it was really steep, and really rickety.  Let's just say that safety measures here don't quite match up to those in the states...

                    

I can't get a normal smile out of that kid to save my life.  Oh, and does anybody recognize I's elbows?  Finally, some shots of the valley from the top of one of the castles:

   

We truly live in a beautiful place.

Back to Blogging

So, I know it's been a long time since I've posted anything on the blog.  A really long time.  My only excuse it that our lives have been unexpectedly crazy during the last few weeks.  We've had our share of good things (more castles, first day of school, trip to the Netherlands) and some not so good things (Naomi's sore feet, damaged brand new van, sliced the tip of my thumb off).  Oh, and all our household goods (to translate for you non-military folk - our STUFF) finally, finally, FINALLY arrived.  So between trips to the car dealership and the hospital, I've been trying to figure out how to fit our belongings (which fit quite nicely into an 1800 square foot house) into a 1200 square foot apartment.  Quite the challenging task.  And I'm still not done.  Right now the futon is a junk repository, Naomi's books are still in a box (not quite sure where to put them), we haven't hung any pictures (they're currently stacked in the corner of the living room) and we are still using sheets and blankets as curtains.  However, we've made progress, and this apartment is starting to feel like a home.  We'll know we've finally arrived when our kids stop referring to our apartment as "the hotel." 

We have also kept busy escaping the "hotel."  That is why we're here, after all.  And we have seen some beautiful places.  A few weeks ago, B went on a high adventure backpacking trip in Switzerland with the boy scouts.  Poor guy.  I mean, who would want to hike the Alps in Switzerland?  What a rough life.  Anyway, we had a lot of fun joking about the "high adventure" aspects of the trip.  After all, they slept in Alpine huts and youth hostels, had meals prepared for them and took a cog railway and a gondola part way up the mountain.  High adventure?  Are you kidding?  What happened to packing your own food in and out?  Not to mention your waste products?  And how about sleeping on the ground in the rain?   Well, it turns out that the hike was actually quite steep and quite challenging.  As well as being steep, the trail was also very slippery - especially when they were hiking in the rain.  They saw, however, some stunning scenery and had a terrific time.  I can't wait to go back with B and the kids and do some hiking.  I miss mountains.  Anyway, here are some pictures B took on his trip...

Isn't it beautiful?  They were so lucky to have blue skies the first day.  Here are a few more from the first day...

                                                          

 

The building above is where the hikers stayed the first night.  They were sleeping in small beds shoulder to shoulder in the attic.  Apparently the beds they slept in that night were just fine, but the shoulder to shoulder part was not (there was some serious snoring going on) so the quality of sleep wasn't that great.  The second day they climbed to the summit of Shilthorn.  Unfortunately, that was the day it rained, so the view from the top was obstructed by clouds. 

On the final day they did a short hike.  At the end of the hike they came across some local musicians.  And I thought hauling a cello around was a pain.

The Alphorn is really a cool instrument.  If you would like to know how it sounds, do a search on youtube for alphorn - there are a bunch videos of alphorn groups performing. 

While B was off playing Captain VonTrapp, the kids and I had a few of our own adventures.  I think I'm done for tonight, so stay tuned for an account of our harrowing castle hike and yet even another post recounting our trip to the Netherlands.  And if by then I don't feel like I've said enough, you might be lucky enough to get a post on interesting things I've discovered about Europe and Europeans.  Gotta get it in print while it's still fresh!